Saturday, November 2, 2013

Yosemite National Park (4-23)


[1. Introduction] [2. 旅遊建議/食宿交通] [3. Sightseeing] [4. Day Hiking] [5. Winter Activities] [6. Other Activities] [7. Who's Who in the Park] [8. More about the Park] [9. Conclusion]


4. Day Hiking

[4-1. Mirror Lake] [4-2. Mist Trail (Vernal Falls)] [4-3. Nevada Falls] [4-4. Half Dome] [4-5. Lyell Canyon: Twin Bridges] [4-6. Clouds Rest] [4-7. Sunrise Lakes/High Sierra Camp] [4-8. Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias] [4-9. Vogelsang Pass via Rafferty Creek] [4-10. Vogelsang HSC via Lyell Fork/Evelyn Lake] [4-11. Pothole Dome] [4-12. North Dome] [4-13. Upper Yosemite Falls Trail] [4-14. Taft Point] [4-15. Sentinel Dome] [4-16. Glen Aulin/White Cascade/Tuolumne Falls] [4-17. Waterwheel Falls/Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne] [4-18. McGurk Meadow/Dewey Point/Crocker Point] [4-19. May Lake/Mount Hoffman] [4-20. Ostrander Lake] [4-21. Four Mile Trail] [4-22. Inspiration Point/Stanford Point] [4-23. Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek] [4-24. Merced Lake to Vogelsang via Lewis Creek] [4-25. Wapama Falls] [4-26. Cathedral Lakes] [4-27. Elizabeth Lake] [4-28. Young Lakes]

4-23. Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek

IMG_0531 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.1: 這地方是從Vogelsang HSC照的,離Merced Lake HSC有7.6 miles,途中還有Emeric Lake與Babcock Lake這兩個side trips,行有餘力的可以順便走。

IMG_0538 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.2: 七月底草看起來像是秋天。

IMG_0541 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.3: 步道旁的這條小溪就是Fletcher Creek,遙想當年這地方應該是整個被冰河覆蓋。

IMG_0555 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.4: 在走了一陣子樹林路後到了這個較空曠的meadow,可以看到樹(應該是lodgepole pine)稀稀落落長在裡面,不過如果global warming繼續惡化的話,這片meadow將來會全部變成forest。

IMG_0591 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.5: 這是往Emeric Lake走一小段看到的湖邊meadow,視野相當不錯,即使不走到湖邊,居高遠望也算是相當值得走這個side trip。

DSCN3983 Emeric Lake, Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.6: 那個湖就是Emeric Lake,如果時間多的話,是可以花一整天在這附近explore。

Distance (one way): 7.8 miles
Vogelsang HSC Elevation: 10,180 feet
Merced Lake HSC Elevation: 7,250 feet
Hiking Time: 4 - 6 hours

Vogelsang HSCMerced Lake HSC有兩條步道,一條是走Lewis Creek,另一條是Fletcher Creek。所以如果打算往返Vogelsang與Merced Lake,通常是去程走其中一條,回程走另一條。這兩條trail也都各有side trip,比如這邊要寫的Fletcher Creek Trail就有Emeric Lake與Babcock Lake這兩個地方可以去。

IMG_8927 Emeric Lake, Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.7: Emeric Lake旁的青青湖邊草。

IMG_0624 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.8: 有些地方得跨溪而過,不過還有些墊腳石可以利用,在太早季節來的話可能得雙腳all in。

IMG_0628 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.9: 這邊是一個大meadow,Fletcher Creek貫穿其中。這角度是回頭照的,也就是說如果你是從Merced Lake HSC往Vogelsang這方向走會比較順,不然三不五時就得回頭一下。

IMG_0647 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.10: 這地方算是in the middle of nowhere,忽然出現了mule team,還蠻有趣的。

IMG_0663 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.11: Mule team一去不復返。

IMG_0705 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.12: 這片大meadow應該是這整段路裡最平且最好看的地方,但這個地方並沒有名字。

我走Fletcher Creek Trail到Merced Lake的這天,實際上是從Tuolumne Meadows開始走,也就是先完成了Rafferty Creek Trail這一段6.7 miles到達Vogelsang HSC的trail後,繼續走Fletcher Creek Trail到達Merced Lake HSC,還有力氣去Emeric Lake與Babcock Lake沾個醬油,整天走了快16 miles,是2013年我走第二長的day hiking,小輸一個月後在Glacier National Park走的Dawson-Pitamakan Loop這個16 miles步道。

雖然一天從Tuolumne Meadows走了16 miles到Merced Lake看似非常遙遠,不過整段路最難走的還是在從Tuolumne Meadows到達Vogelsang的這一段上坡路,之後是整路下坡。因為Rafferty Creek我之前曾經花了將近四小時走到,所以我有一定的把握可以一天走到Merced Lake HSC,雖然很少人以這種方式到達Merced Lake就是。我想是因為在這之前常常一天走超過10 miles的步道,這次竟然只花了三小時就從Tuolumne Meadows走到Vogelsangs了,比我預定的還快了一小時,這年的體力明顯比前年好,也因此我稍微花了點時間去Emeric Lake與Babcock Lake,之前是有想說如果體力不夠的話有打算要割捨這兩個地方的。

IMG_0732 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.13: 走到這也差不多要離開這個meadow了。

IMG_0744
Figure 4-23.14: Fletcher Creek開始下坡,有點Glen Aulin這步道的味道,但水量小很多就是。

IMG_0754 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.15: 這整片光滑的斜坡想必也是被冰河磨出來的,不過這冰河早已萎縮成Fletcher Creek這條小溪流。

IMG_0780 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.16: 這地方是Babcock Lake的起點。

IMG_0793 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.17: 大概得走個0.5 mile才會到Babcock Lake。

IMG_0798 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.18: 另一個Babcock Lake的角度,不算scenic,沒走應該不是甚麼損失。

走這種超過10 miles或更長的步道除了自己體力與腿力得夠之外,鞋子不要太差,鞋墊太薄的話記得先去換一下;此外,襪子一般得以wool為主,cotton這種的襪子在走這麼長的距離下很容易因腳底的熱與汗而起水泡。所以有些時候會在步道上看到有人在休息時脫掉鞋子與襪子,就是在讓腳底散熱與排汗。如果你之後還有很長的路要走(比如backpackers),腳底生水泡是個壞消息。另一件事情是要常常喝水,即使沒有口渴也加減喝一下,可以避免dehydration(脫水),因為在努力上坡外加日曬的情況下,水被身體吸收比排出的速度慢。而通常深入backcountry後得自己以溪水或湖水濾水水來喝,不過因為中途的Vogelsang HSC有提供飲用水而方便很多。

要確定自己有沒有dehydration的一個方式,就是hiking完上廁所時檢查自己的尿液顏色,如果是透明的那就是ok,如果有顏色就表示你已經dehydrated,顏色越深dehydration越嚴重,可能會有頭暈(有時候頭暈是高山症)、嘴唇乾澀等症狀,可能也會有身體疲倦或感覺不是很舒服。一般除了喝水外,還得吃點trail mix還是energy bar之類的東西補充鹽分與其他礦物質。

之所以要注意這些事是因為並不是一天走將近16 miles之後就結束了,後面還有大概這距離得走,因此得留意水泡還是dehydration這方面的問題,才不會拖累之後的行程。

IMG_0814 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.19: 過了Babcock Lake後又是一段下坡。

IMG_0847 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.20: 這段下坡很傷腿,往上走會很累。

IMG_0848 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.21: Merced Lake與Half Dome。

IMG_0862 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.22: 另外一條叉路,如果有在Merced Lake HSC過兩夜的話,不少人隔天會走到Washburn Lake。

IMG_0869 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.23: 步道旁的Ponderosa pine表示離Merced Lake HSC已經不遠了,海拔比Vogelsang少了快3,000 feet所以樹的種類也很不一樣。

IMG_0882 Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek
Figure 4-23.24: 到達Merced Lake HSC。

Fletcher Creek Trail最好看的地方我想是過了Emeric Lake後的一個大meadow(Figure 4-23.9到Figure 4-23.13),這段路走起來的感覺應該是不到2 miles的距離。如果你對冰河地形有概念的話,應該一眼就可以看出這是個U-shaped valley。雖然當年的冰河如今萎縮成Fletcher Creek這一條小溪,這地方的景觀依然相當廣闊,而且是無車馬喧的backcountry。如果你想找個寬闊視野且沒有其他觀光客打擾的獨樂樂之處,這片meadow可算是個代表。話雖如此,我走這段路覺得最有趣的事情是遇到一隊mule team,在這種天大地大的地方騎在mule上想必是相當的enjoyable。不過用走的有更大的自由度,比如你可以走到溪邊玩水,或是當場找個地方坐下休息四處張望......。如果你是從Merced Lake到達這meadow,會更appreciate這地方,因為到這之前得一路上坡,直到這才算是獲得喘息的機會。

Emeric Lake是一個side trip,時間不夠的話可以稍微走過去到可以遠眺湖的地方,應該只有0.1 mile還是0.2 mile左右,視野算是不錯。如果想要探索整個區域,大概得在Vogelsang那邊多過一夜,之後花整天在這湖;另一個side trip是較靠近Merced Lake的Babcock Lake,這個side trip大概得走0.3 mile可以看到湖,到湖邊大概得走0.5 mile。雖然來回不算遠,不過這湖不算特別scenic,沒空或沒體力的話我是覺得直接bypass即可。

過了Babcock Lake的junction後坡度還蠻大的,而且有不少腳得直接踩在很硬花岡岩鋪出來的路段,屬於相當傷腿的下坡路段,帶個hiking pole會有不少幫助。越接近Merced Lake的海拔越低,你可以發現到植物跟在Vogelsang相當不同。Vogelsang那邊大都是lodgepole pine,但Merced Lake這邊就比較多ponderosa pine、甚至是juniper。

正常情況下,一天從Vogelsang往Merced Lake走應該是很容易的一件事,因為大都是下坡且不到8 miles。那晚在Merced Lake HSC時,大家互問從什麼地方走過來的(這是住HSC常發生的事),當天只有我一個人是從Tuolumne Meadows走到這,其他都是從Vogelsang或是Sunrise,所以在Merced Lake HSC當了一晚的celebrity,算是意外的插曲。

Previous Next

[4-1. Mirror Lake] [4-2. Mist Trail (Vernal Falls)] [4-3. Nevada Falls] [4-4. Half Dome] [4-5. Lyell Canyon: Twin Bridges] [4-6. Clouds Rest] [4-7. Sunrise Lakes/High Sierra Camp] [4-8. Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias] [4-9. Vogelsang Pass via Rafferty Creek] [4-10. Vogelsang HSC via Lyell Fork/Evelyn Lake] [4-11. Pothole Dome] [4-12. North Dome] [4-13. Upper Yosemite Falls Trail] [4-14. Taft Point] [4-15. Sentinel Dome] [4-16. Glen Aulin/White Cascade/Tuolumne Falls] [4-17. Waterwheel Falls/Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne] [4-18. McGurk Meadow/Dewey Point/Crocker Point] [4-19. May Lake/Mount Hoffman] [4-20. Ostrander Lake] [4-21. Four Mile Trail] [4-22. Inspiration Point/Stanford Point] [4-23. Vogelsang to Merced Lake via Fletcher Creek] [4-24. Merced Lake to Vogelsang via Lewis Creek] [4-25. Wapama Falls] [4-26. Cathedral Lakes] [4-27. Elizabeth Lake] [4-28. Young Lakes]

[1. Introduction] [2. 旅遊建議/食宿交通] [3. Sightseeing] [4. Day Hiking] [5. Winter Activities] [6. Other Activities] [7. Who's Who in the Park] [8. More about the Park] [9. Conclusion]

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